Kia Ora! Yesterday’s visit in Rotorua was an educational and meaningful visit and left an impression on the students not only about Maori culture but also about the power of a person to make a difference.
The students enjoyed a plentiful and leisurely breakfast of muffins, eggs, bacon, croissants, yogurts, and regional fruit (and juices). It was exciting to hear them speak about the connections they are making with the students from the other schools on our tour and their impressions about the activities we’ve participated in while here in Rotorua.
Our driver Roger brought us to a geothermal area called Waiotapu. Our first stop was at the Lady Knox Geyser. New Zealand is one of only three countries with active geysers (the US and Iceland are the other two). The Lady Knox Geyser was unearthed about a century ago when prisoners in a work camp came across a hot spring outside of Rotorua and used it for bathing and laundry. Over time, the minerals from the soap they were using worked their way into an underwater lake and - well, poof! The lake erupted and created what is now known as the Lady Knox Geyser. A staffer from the Park “induced” the geyser - and we were all thankful that we wore our raincoats and were standing just on the lip of the “splash zone.”
We spent the rest of the morning in the geothermal park. Local guides whisked us around the area pointing out various craters, mud pools, and fumaroles. Highly concentrated mineral deposits left vivid colors on the edges of some of the pools. Several of our rising juniors were quick to share the chemical symbols for these elements with our guide - no doubt Ms. Farrell will be proud of her budding chemists!
The afternoon was when things really took off. We met a local guide from the Kohutapu Maori Lodge who greeted each of us in the traditional Maori way (face-to-face; nose-to-nose) and then provided commentary about her ancestral tribal lands as we made our way through the misty mountains into a lush, green valley.
The tribal lands are home to the largest man-made forest in the Southern Hemisphere - and that is where the story recently turned tragic for her people. In the 1960s, the New Zealand government sold rights to lease out the land to private corporations for forestry and logging. A poor economic environment for the Maori turned worse when these companies mechanized the logging process - resulting in massive unemployment. Fast-forward a generation, and the once thriving Maori township is impoverished and suffers still from the social effects of that poverty including crime, substance abuse, and urban drift.
Our guide brought us to her hometown and to the area school where she and local students taught our tour group a haka. The haka is a traditional way for the Maori to tell and celebrate their stories - these chants, for an approximate word, are often shared at funerals, birthdays, in honor of visitors, and other special occasions.
From there, we drove out to the Kohutapu Lodge where we met the vibrant and inspiring Nadine! Nadine offered a sacred greeting to us and then introduced us to Why who taught us how to weave with flax grass. Students put their new skill to use weaving their own bracelet (or at least that was the goal!).
As the sun set, Nadine blew a conch shell and gathered us around the hangi pit where her husband Carl was about to uncover the feast that awaited us. Hangi is a traditional way of cooking by digging a pit in the ground and using hot Hangi stones (found glistening by moonlight on the riverbeds) and steam to cook the food. And what a feast we had! Chicken, pork potatoes, pumpkin, and stuffing emerged from the Hangi pit - and not long after filled our plates and then our bellies along with sides like pineapple coleslaw, salad, and fried sweet bread. The meal was topped off with a sampling of several desserts!
Nadine then shared the special story about her family’s Lodge and business. Recognizing the extreme poverty of the Maori township and embracing her call as a Maori woman (“We are warriors, and we will preserve our culture - even in a modern age”), Nadine and Carl gave up everything to open the Lodge about five years ago. They use the proceeds from visiting groups like ours to invest back into the local community. The extra food (and there is always extra food - it is a cultural expectation that a host never runs out of food!) is brought to the local schools or, on the weekends, to the elderly. Over the past five years, the couple has been able to deliver 20,000 meals to the 1,500-person township and reinvest over a half million dollars into the community with a number of different programs. Our students were really touched by this story and the positive impact that their tour had on the very community that we drove through and the school we visited that afternoon. The students eagerly helped Nadine package the remaining food and also made an additional donation to support the work that Nadine and Carl are doing to give hope to the future of the Maori.